My Trip to the North of Spain

Over a week ago, on my first official day of "Spring Break" in Spain (April 15th) I headed to the bus station.  My old friend, Megan and I, had planned a trip to northern Spain together.  She and I studied together in Toledo, Spain during the summer of 2008.  Even though we've been out of contact from time to time, every time we've gotten to see one another we can always start up were we left off without any awkwardness.  Megan teaches English like me and is currently living in a city about three hours north of Madrid called Burgos.  So my first stop was Burgos to meet Megan and to have her properly show me around her city and meet her Spanish boyfriend.  I arrived later than expected since the bus station was crowded and tickets had gone fast for the 2pm bus that I had wanted to take.  So I didn't end up leaving Madrid until 3:30pm and thus had to wait around for over two hours in a crowded and desert-hot bus station.  Finally, we were on our way at 3:30pm but I didn't get the direct bus so we made three different stops in pueblos and sat through a lot of traffic.  We finally arrived around 6:45pm (about a half an hour later than expected).

Megan met me at the bus station and I noticed how it was quite a bit colder than Madrid with a brisk breeze.  We walked about 25 minutes to her apartment.  I was relieved to get some fresh air even if it was cool air.  We chatted the whole walk there and finally arrived to her super nice apartment.  I dropped off my things in her spare bedroom that I would be spending the night in and she fed me an orange and some yogurt since I looked pale after my long, hot bus ride.  Her boyfriend was there so I got to meet him before he was out the door to go play racquetball.  Megan and I chatted for about half an hour before leaving her place so she could show me around Burgos a bit.  Our first stop was Plaza Mayor (the old, main plaza that almost every city here has).  Then we saw the beautiful cathedral, which Burgos is known for (though only the outside since it's currently undergoing construction) and then the main shopping area.  The city reminded me a lot of Toledo, feeling very historic and quaint but at the same time it was far less touristy than Toledo which was very nice.  After seeing the main sights (it is a very small city compared to Madrid), we headed to a few local Spanish bars were we got a variety of tapas and some cañas (small glasses of beer).  I tried some smoked salmon and cheese on toasted bread, croquetas and some delicious calamari.  We had some wonderful conversation and wonderful food in the city of Burgos.  After a few hours of sightseeing, eating and talking, we headed back to her apartment.  When we got there we watched some TV for a bit with her boyfriend before calling it an early night since we had to catch a bus in the morning.

Plaza Mayor

The cathedral of Burgos

Croquetas on bread and cañas

Calamari

In the morning we woke up around 9am.  I felt very much rested while I got ready.  We had a quick breakfast before getting a free ride to the bus station, compliments of Megan's man.  We bought our tickets for the 10:30am bus to Bilbao- our next destination.  We boarded the bus and chatted the whole nearly three hours there, while enjoying the beautiful green, rolling and mountainous terrain.  We finally arrived at the bus station.  The sky was blue, the weather mild and the city looked beautiful.  We had to ask directions to our hostel even though it claimed it was only a "five minute walk" from the bus station.  We took a few wrong turns but made it there eventually.  We were fortunate enough to book private rooms in each hostel since the cost of hostels is much cheaper in the north compared to the south of Spain.  It makes such a big difference having a private room in a hostel compared to sharing a room with 3-6 other travelers.  It also guarantees better sleep and a cleaner environment.

After getting a map from the lady at the desk we set out to see the Casco Viejo (literally meaning "old shell" but meaning the old, historic part of the city).  It was about a 15 minute walk there.  We crossed a bridge over the Ría (Bilbao river) to the old city.  It was small but beautiful.  The streets were full of shops, restaurants and bars.  We saw the cathedral, which was surrounded by many narrow, winding streets.  We stopped at two different bars in order to try some of the pinchos (small appetizers).  Everyone in Spain knows that the food in the north is the best food in Spain, so we had to take full advantage and try as much as we possibly could!  After wandering the streets for a while we got some ice cream before leaving the Casco Viejo.

Ría

Cathedral in Casco Viejo (Bilbao)

Plaza next to cathedral in Casco Viejo

The streets of Casco Viejo

The next stop was the Guggenheim Museum, Bilbao's museum of modern art.  We weren't actually planning on going inside but instead experiencing the outside of the museum, which is a work of art in itself.  We found that we could simply follow the road next to the Ría and it would lead us all the way to the museum.  It was only about a 15 minute walk before we spotted the famous giant metal spider outside the museum and knew we were in the right place.  The weather was beautiful so we sat outside the giant metal museum (which reminded me of the Weisman art museum on the U of M- Twin Cities campus).  There was a lot of large and interesting modern art structures surrounding the whole museum so we took our time visiting each one.

there was a small man-made river surrounding the museum with a water steamer

The front of the museum

the huge dog (?) made out of flowers/plants

After the museum we headed to the center of the city to their Plaza Mayor.  The sun was shining so we sat near the fountain, took off our shoes and took in a little bit of the warmth.  After a bit of chatting and relaxing we decided to go into a few stores and see if we could find anything.  Neither of us found anything so it turned into an afternoon of window shopping.  We went down one of the main shopping streets and saw an array of stores and street performers.  We stopped for coffee after realizing we were lost.  We had gone in the opposite direction of the park (our next destination) because of my navigating skills.  So we went back in the opposite direction and made it to the park.  The one thing I truly love about Spain is there are always people in the streets, plazas and parks.  It's a place to socialize and enjoy time with the ones you love.  So of course the park was full of families, children, young people and couples.  We walked through slowly but didn't stop since we were both exhausted from a full day of walking and wanted to go back to the hostel to rest for a bit.  We finally made it near our hostel and heard a Semana Santa (Holy/Saint week, the week before Easter) procession.  The holy processions are interesting yet eerie.  People are dressed in holy robes of different colors (not sure what all the colors mean) but the particular procession we witnessed had white and black robes.  The eerie part about the processions are the sounds of the music and drums and the masks/hats that the people in the processions wear.  These processions date back far into the Spanish catholic history but they quite resemble the hats that the KKK wore.  We watched the procession for a few minutes, snapped a few pictures and headed back to the hostel.  We rested back at the hostel for about an hour before leaving to go find some dinner.

Plaza Mayor in Bilbao

Plaza Mayor

Religious processions for Semana Santa (Holy Week)

We left the hostel when it was started to get dark around 9pm and seemed to wander the streets for about an hour before finally finding a place that looked decent and non-touristy to eat at.  We ordered a bottle of rosé and enjoyed three different plates: german sausage with a cheese fondue, ham and cheese on toast (sort of like a spanish bruschetta) and then an amazing salad with ham and goat cheese.  For dessert we got some delicious tiramisu.  Dinner lasted almost two hours.  We enjoyed our food at a slow pace with great conversation.  We left feeling satisfied and tired from a long day of sightseeing.  We got back to our hostel, got ready for bed and went to sleep.

Megan, german sausages, cheese fondue

"Spanish Bruschetta"

Salad with huge pieces of goat cheese

Tiramisu

The next morning, Sunday, we headed to the bus station to catch the 8:30am bus to Santander, our next destination.  Santander is west of Bilbao on the northern coast of Spain.  The ride there was about two hours.  The terrain, like the terrain from Burgos to Bilbao was beautiful; green pastures, rolling hills, slightly mountainous, SO GREEN.  We arrived at the bus station which did not look at all like the city we expected.  It seemed smaller and we didn't know if we were in the right place, but we were!  Like Bilbao, our hostel was located "five minutes walking" from the bus station.  We had to ask for directions but within no time we made it there.  Unfortunately it was Sunday, meaning almost everything was closed.  But we weren't here to sightsee as much as relax and see the beach.  It was too early to check into our room at the hostel so we put our bags in the storage room and went in search of an early beer at one of the outdoor restaurants.  We had gotten a map from the lady at the hostel so we looked at it, chatted and drank a beer while we decided what we were going to do that day.

Finally around noon we were able to check into the hostel.  Like Bilbao, we had a private room and this one also had a private bathroom so it was essentially like a hotel.  The lady at the hostel told us there wasn't really "anything" important in terms of historical sites to see in the city.  It was more of a beach city.  We already knew this so we got on our bathing suits and went out in search of place for lunch before heading to the beach.  In frustration of not being able to find a good spanish place to eat we stopped at an Italian restaurant.  The food was overpriced and there was way too much melted cheese in our dishes!  We both felt a little sick after eating there since the food had been so heavy.  Before heading to the beach we stopped at a convenience store and picked up some bottled water and sunflower seeds for the beach.  We were told by the lady at the hostel that we could easily take a bus to any beach and that this was the fastest way to get there.  So the first bus we saw we hopped on and rode it until we saw a beach that looked good.  Near the beach was far more windier than in the city but it was still sunny and probably in the mid-60s.  It was definitely not swimming weather but we thought we would lay in the sand and enjoy the sun and the sound of the waves.  It was so relaxing in fact that we both fell asleep on our towels for about an hour.  We stayed for a while longer after this just laying in the sun.

We couldn´t find a bus going in the opposite direction TOWARDS the city so we decided to walk.  It hadn´t seemed like that long of a walk back but it was...almost an hour.  The scenery with the beach to the left of us was beautiful though.  We stopped a few times on benches to eat our sunflower seeds and watch people going by.  As soon as we got back into the city we noticed that nearly everyone passing us was eating ice cream.  Maybe we were both subconsciously craving ice cream and thus it appeared that everyone passing us was eating ice cream but either way we decided to stop and get some for ourselves.  It was delicious of course!  We were quite tired after this though, luckily it was only about another ten minute walk back to the hostel.  We got back, tired and full of sand and both needed to shower and rest before going to get some dinner.  Around 9pm we headed out for dinner.  We had passed a place during the lunch hour (a mesón) restuarant that was bustling with people.  It didn´t appear touristy either so we figured it must be amazing since so many were willing to wait an hour to eat there.  We got there early enough to only have to wait about 20 minutes for a table.  While we waited we enjoyed a few cañas.  We were finally sat down at a table and had already decided at the bar what we were going to order: ham croquetas, two different kabab-like varieties with ham and mushrooms on one and fish and wild mushrooms on the other and calamari in a red sauce over a bed of gulas (noodles made out of fish!)  Megan assured me that even though this dish looked like worms that it was quite delicious.  Everything tasted great in fact.  We washed our meals down with a pitcher of sangria!

Views of Santander

ice cream

Pitcher of Sangria and mini ham croquetas

Fish/wild mushroom kabab

Non-fried calamari in a red sauce over a bed of fish noodles!

ham/mushroom kabab

After dinner we walked back to the hostel, got ready for bed and watched a bit of tv before quickly falling asleep.  The next morning we woke up early (6:40am) in order to get the bus station by 7:30am since we thought our bus was leaving at 8am to head to Gijón.  It was here that we realized our bus was actually for 8:30am, not 8am.  It was no big deal though, we got some fresh squeezed orange juice and a few croissants and relaxed until our bus was about to leave.  The ride to Gijón was only about an hour and a half.  It was even a smaller bus station than Santander had been.  We weren´t sure we were in the right place until we saw signs for the city.  Before stopping in Gijón the bus stopped in Oviedo, a bigger city that is not on the beach but within 10 minutes drive from it.  This is where almost all the people on the bus got off.  We were about two of seven people to get off in Gijón.  The actual city of Gijón, like Santander didn´t seem to be anything special.  After a bit of frustration and asking a few locals for directions we made it to our hostel which was actually called a hotel even though it was only about 20 euro/person per night.  Like Santander we had a private room with a private bathroom.  We got settled in, checked out the map and figured out where we would go this day.

We left the hotel and headed right across the street to a Sidrería (place that makes cider) that had caught both of our eyes.  The region where Gijón is located is called Asturias and Asturias is specifically known for their delicious cider.  We both ordered the Menu del Día (three course meal with drink at one price).  Unfortunately though this menu drink did not include cider so we had to have red wine instead.  The waiter was nice enough to point out a few points of interest for us on the map.  We set off toward the beach, stopping first in the port area where there was a huge "Gijón" sign in red.  We found the plaza mayor near the beach.  We passed a beautiful church before climbing a steep road to get to a park that overlooked the coast.  It was super windy but breathtaking.  We sat in the grass and looked out at the sea and the beautiful green terrain and simply took in the beauty.  After a while we started to get a bit cold though since it was sooo windy.  We decided to head back in the direction of our hotel and stop at any shops that looked interesting.  We found a cute shop that sold some touristy things but also some foods and drinks of the region.  I found some honey and Megan found some liquor that would be similar to Bailys liquor.  We walked back to the hotel and it started to drizzle along the way.  This was the first time so far on our trip that it rained so we were a bit disappointed.  We got back to the hotel and were so exhausted from the past few days of walking and moving from city to city that we both took about a two-hour siesta.  When we woke up we watched tv before deciding to venture out and find some food. 

Gijón

port

Plaza Mayor of Gijón

almost to a view of the coast!

Church of San Pedro

Cerro de Santa Catalina park

Elogio del Horizonte

We left the hotel around 9:30pm and found a place to share a bottle of Sidra.  By the time we left here we realized that many of the restaurants were already closed.  We finally found a small little restaurant that still seemed to be bustling.  We asked if they were still serving dinner and they said "yes."  We went in and ordered another bottle of sidra.  We shared some croquetas and a salad and then afterwards got a very tasty desert.  I´m not exactly sure what it was but it tasted like fried bananas that you dipped in a sauce that had bits of nuts and cinnamon flavor- it was delicious!  We finished our meal and headed back to the hotel.  

cider made in Asturias!

salad

Dessert (you dip the pieces on the right into the sauce on the left)

The next morning we slept-in till nearly 11am.  Traveling clearly had taken a toll on both of our bodies.  We got up, got ready and walked down the street in search of a late breakfast.  We found a little shop and each got a croissant.  We headed towards a large park in the opposite direction of the beach.  The waiter from the day before had suggested it, saying it was a park with a lot of birds.  We arrived there in no time and found that it was a very green and very beautiful park.  We came upon a pond were there were many ducks and geese.  There were many families and children feeding the birds.  We walked around and saw some "pavo real" (literally meaning royal turkys but they are actually peacocks).  They were wandering around freely on the paths, occassionally getting taunted by children.  Further in the park there was a whole area with cages of all sizes.  Inside the biggest were three huge birds- I believe they were ostriches.  We also saw parakeets, cockatiels, parrots, a giant white peacock and some lovebirds.  Nearby there was a large childrens park.  We sat on a bench in envy of the wonderland park these kids were enjoying: there was everything from seasaws, swings, huge spider nets to climb and even a giant tree trunk to crawl in and out of.  The sun had come out again and we decided to head back and find a place for lunch since we hadn´t eaten much for breakfast.

Isabel la Católica Park

patos! (ducks)

the beautiful park

"Pavo Real"

Ostrich

white peacock through fence

We stopped at a small restaurant and got the menu of the day like the day before.  Megan was the one that took the risk by ordering fried sardines with even their tails still on.  I on the other hand ordered the pasta and then the chicken.  We enjoyed our meal with some red wine and finished it off with some ice cream.  The waiter was extremely kind and even cracked some jokes with us.  We both really noticed how the people in the north are such hard workers and very kind.  We very much appreciated this being foreigners since we hate being treated like tourists.  The people in the north did not treat us like tourists in the least- even though Megan has blonde hair (and thus stands out as a foreigner).  Since the sun was out we decided to take advantage of the weather and head down to the actual beach.  We made it down and it was quite beautiful.  There were even a few people swimming too- and body-surfing!  We chatted and listened to the waves coming in while snacking on some sunflower seeds.  When the tide started to come in quite a bit we decided to head back.  We wandered around and did a bit of window-shopping.  Then we realized we were completely lost.  So I got out the map only to realize that we were less than two blocks away from our hotel.  We navigated back and realized that we had been taking the long way everywhere- basically we had gone in a big circle and that our hotel was indeed quite close to the beach.  Back at our hotel we relaxed and watched some tv.

Megan's fried sardines!

finally on the beach in Gijón!

Playa de San Lorenzo

At dinner time we headed back out in search of a restaurant.  We found a cute little restaurant with only two other tables of people in it.  We came in and sat down at a table.  One of the waiters came over and gave us menus.  Megan suggested we order a few things to share.  We got chiparones (a type of calamari but larger and oval shapes with hollow insides), a warm salad with ham and white asparagus, chorizo (a type of spanish sausage) cooked in cider and then a bottle of cider.  It was MORE than enough food- in fact too much.  But we slowly ate and truly enjoyed our dinner.  The waiter was so kind to us.  Near the end of the meal we ordered a second bottle of cider to share.  Megan taught me a wonderful phrase, "Me he puesto las botas," it essentially is slang for "I pigged out."  Near the end of the meal she said this to the waiter and he thought it was hilarious.  After dinner we ordered a piece of cheesecake with a berry sauce.  The waiter offered us free coffee on the house followed by a "chupito" (shot of alcohol that helps with digestion- this is very common to drink after the meal).  We were COMPLETELY stuffed after this meal.  I think we both felt like we waddled back to the hotel from how full we were.  We got back and because of the coffee neither of us could sleep.  We lay in our beds for hours having deep conversation.  We figured we could sleep the next day on the ride home.

warm salad with white asparagus wrapped in ham

Chorizo (sausage) cooked in cider (and probably a little blood too)

Chiparones (fried calamari about the size of an egg shell but hallow on the inside)

Enjoying dessert and our second bottle of sidra (but before the free coffee and shots)

The next morning we woke up relatively early.  Megan's bus back to Burgos left at 8am.  My bus back to Madrid left at 9am but I figured I would go with her and get some breakfast and say goodbye.  It was a cloudy and slightly dreary morning when we said our goodbyes.  My bus ride was roughly 6 hours back to Madrid.  However, because of rain and a rest stop half way through the ride was over 6 and a half hours.  Once we finally got to the south bus station in Madrid (Mendez Alvaro) there was a huge line of buses waiting to get into the station.  Semana Santa (Holy week/ Easter vacation) is a very popular time to travel in Spain, it would be similar to Spring Break in the U.S.  Therefore, I have never seen the bus station as crowded as it was.  Our bus had to wait in a line of other buses to simply enter the station for nearly 20 minutes.  We were all so antsy to get out after having been in the bus for nearly 7 hours that it was physically painful to sit and wait.  We finally got in and I quickly grabbed my bag and fought through the crowds to the Metro.  From the opposite end of the city (I live in the north) the Metro ride was about 50 minutes back to my apartment.  I was extremely exhausted when I got home....I don't think I have been that physically exhausted since my 28 hours of travel to Spain in October.  It was a relief to finally sit down in my apartment and take a deep breath.

Overall my trip to the north was a wonderful experience!  I couldn't have chosen a better travel partner than Megan- we truly had a great time together.  The north of Spain is incredibly beautiful- it is hard for me to even explain how amazing it is.  So I would highly recommend if you ever take a trip to Spain to spend a few days on the northern coast.  The terrain is beautiful, the food- the most delicious you will get anywhere in Spain and the people are so kind and welcoming.  It really once again made me appreciate everything that I love about Spain!